Following in the well-worn footsteps of the Beats, the hippies also used cannabis (marijuana), considering it pleasurable and benign. They enlarged their spiritual pharmacopeia to include hallucinogens such as LSD, psilocybin and mescaline. On the East Coast of the United States, Harvard University professors Timothy Leary, Ralph Metzner and Richard Alpert (Ram Dass) advocated psychotropic drugs for psychotherapy, self-exploration, religious and spiritual use. Regarding LSD, Leary said, “Expand your consciousness and find ecstasy and revelation within.

On the West Coast of the United States, Ken Kesey was an important figure in promoting the recreational use of psychotropic drugs, especially LSD, also known as “acid.” By holding what he called “Acid Tests”, and touring the country with his band of Merry Pranksters, Kesey became a magnet for media attention that drew many young people to the fledgling movement. The Grateful Dead (originally billed as “The Warlocks”) played some of their first shows at the Acid Tests, often as high on LSD as their audiences. Kesey and the Pranksters had a “vision of turning on the world. Harder drugs, such as amphetamines and heroin were also used in hippie settings; however, these drugs were often disdained, even among those who used them, because they were recognized as harmful and addictive.

Les psychotropes

Le LSD fut découvert en 1943 dans le laboratoire suisse Sandoz et sera déclaré illégal aux États-Unis le 6 octobre 1966. L’esthétique psychédélique peut être assimilée aux visions provoquées par le LSD. Il provoque en somme, une déformation de votre vision et vous entraine dans un état rêveur où réalité et rêve sont confondus. Le psychologue Timothy Leary, le chimiste Augustus Owsley Stanley III et le romancier Ken Kesey ont parmi d’autres encouragé la consommation de LSD. À cette époque, de l’acide a notamment été distribué gratuitement lors des acid tests des Merry Pranksters.

Il est possible de rattacher de nombreux courants artistiques à la consommation de psychotropes, aussi bien la musique (The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Grateful Dead, The Doors, Jimi Hendrix…) que le dessin et la mode.Outre le LSD, le cannabis était aussi massivement consommé par les hippies, en particulier sous sa forme la plus répandue, la Marijuana (qu’ils appelaient maryjane ou thé).

Pour les hippies, le but de cette consommation de psychotropes est une volonté d’ouverture d’esprit et d’abolition des frontières mentales.

The Jefferson airplane

Perhaps the two most famous musical events of 1969 were concerts. At a Rolling Stones concert in Altamont, California, a fan was stabbed to death by Hells Angels, a biker gang that had been hired to provide security for the event. In retrospect, some commentators have concluded that the violence signaled the end of the “hippie” movement, which espoused an ethos of free love and peace. Even more famous than the Altamont concert is Woodstock, which consisted of dozens of the most famous performers in the world at the time, playing together in an atmosphere of peace with nature and love, with many thousands of concert goers; it is still one of the largest concerts in the history of the world. The Isle of Wight festival saw the return of Bob Dylan to live music after his motorbike accident in 1966. Soul Shakedown was the debut album by Bob Marley & the Wailers, who would go on to become one of the most popular groups around the world. The album achieved very little popularity outside of the group’s native country, Jamaica, but began establishing themselves as superstars there. Musically, Soul Shakedown is more ska than reggae, the style of music the Wailers would eventually make world-famous; the pioneering style of the music helped move ska and rocksteady towards reggae.

David Bowie’s debut single, “Space Oddity”, became a huge hit in this year, being released at the time that American astronauts first landed on the moon. The song, the story of an astronaut named Major Tom who goes into space and is entranced by the beauty of seeing Earth from such a great distance and consequently lets himself float off into space, never again to return, was chosen by the BBC as the theme song for the television coverage of the moon landing. The remainder of the album, Man of Words/Man of Music, was too avant-garde for mainstream acceptance, though it established a devoted fanbase for Bowie, who would go on to become one of the most popular musicians in the world.

King Crimson’s In the Court of the Crimson King is a pioneering album in the development of progressive rock. The album drew upon influences like Procol Harum, The Moody Blues and The Nice to form an original sound melding rock and roll with classical influences in long, avant-garde pieces of music. Similar albums by The Moody Blues, Procol Harum and The Nice, as well as Genesis, Yes and Pink Floyd were also released this year, expanding the range of prog rock and developing it into a full-fledged genre.

The Stooges’ eponymous debut, The Stooges, was also released this year to little critical or popular acceptance. The album, however, went on to become one of the most important recordings in the early development of punk rock.

Johnny Cash’s At San Quentin included his only Top Ten pop hit, “A Boy Named Sue”. The album was a sequel to last year’s At Folsom Prison. Also in country music, Merle Haggard’s Same Train, Different Time, a tribute to Jimmie Rodgers, was enormously popular and influenced the development of the Bakersfield sound into outlaw country within a few years.

Creedence Clearwater Revival cement their success from the previous year. Having had a single US #11 hit in 1968 with Suzie Q, they release not only their second, but also their third and fourth proper studio album in 1969 as well as drawing a total of four top 3 hits from these three albums. Starting with Bayou Country including the US #2 hit “Proud Mary” and continuing with Green River and finally Willy and the Poor Boys, which, during the year, transformed them from an up-and-coming underground act to bona fide rockstars. During 1969, Creedence Clearwater Revival had #2 hits in the US with “Proud Mary”, “Green River” and “Bad Moon Rising”, and also have a #3 hit with “Down on the Corner”/”Fortunate Son”.

Gilberto Gil and Caetano Veloso released enormously popular albums in Brazil, Gilberto Gil and Caetano Veloso, respectively. The pair’s fusion of bossa nova, samba and other native Brazilian folk influences, melded with politically and socially aware lyrics, kickstarted what came to be known as Tropicalia. Both musicians moved to London after a period of imprisonment for anti-government activities in Brazil.

Family release their second album, Family Entertainment, in their native Britain. It is their first top ten album in the United Kingdom, hitting number six. “The Weaver’s Answer”, which opens the record, becomes their most popular song in their concert performances. By the end of the year, however, they lose and replace two members, and their first attempt to break through commercially in the United States backfires miserably.

Elvis Presley returns to live performances at the International Hotel in Las Vegas; 57 concerts. He breaks all attendance records in Vegas. He also enjoys a great success with his songs “In The Ghetto” and “Suspicious Minds”.

Let me present you the perfumes launched in 1969. We will begin with a Chamade de Guerlain review.

Chamade was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1969, and it was inspired by the Francoise Sagan’s novel “La Chamade”and  by a woman that he doesn’t want to tell her name excepted to say that she was very beautiful. Some people think of Brigitte Bardot; indeed the Chamade woman is very much like her…

Lots of people see in the amazing Chamade bottle a heart but it is a designed shell inspired by the picture The Birth of Venus by Boticelli. All in Chamade is expressing the liberation of woman and the sexual revolution.

In the time of Napoleon, ‘chamade’ was a very fast drumbeat that called to retreat. This perfume is meant to emulate the heavy heartbeat of a person in love and its fragrance is based on hyacinth, heavy and green, and blackcurrant that can be sensed through the oily hyacinth richness. The main notes are Turkish rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, lilac, blackcurrant buds, lily of the valley, galbanum, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, amber, iris, and Tonka bean.

Parlons des parfums lancés en 1969 et commençons par Chamade de Guerlain.

Chamade fut créé par Jean-Paul Guerlain en hommage au roman homonyme de Françoise Sagan et pour une femme dont il tait le nom excepté pour dire qu’elle était très belle. Certains osent murmurer le nom de Brigitte Bardot car la femme Chamade lui ressemble étrangement.

“Mais son coeur battait sauvagement. Elle sentait son sang quitter son visage et ses mains, et envahir sa gorge, l’étouffant…Son coeur battait la chamade”.

La chamade marque une certaine capitulation devant l’amour, comme un vieil écho au roulement de tambour qui, pendant les guerres napoléoniennes annonçaient la rédition de l’armée. Beaucoup voient dans le très beau flacon de Chamade, dessiné par Raymond Guerlain, un coeur. Il s’agit en fait d’une coquille stylisée dont l’inspiration vient du tableau de Boticelli La naissance de Vénus. Tout en Chamade voulait exprimer la libération de la femme et la révolution sexuelle.

Une douce et verte harmonie de jacinthe, de galbanum et de bourgeons de cassis, utilisés pour la première fois, créent la magistrale envolée de Chamade. Son coeur possède l’opulence poudreuse de l’ylang-ylang, de la rose et du jasmin (avec l’hédione), associées à une “Guerlinade” typique dans laquelle se distingue une grande quantité de vanille au côté du sensuel bois de santal.

Chamade est un très grand parfum, créé par Jean-Paul Guerlain en hommage à la femme et en accord avec son époque.

The hippie legacy in literature includes the lasting popularity of books reflecting the hippie experience, such as The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test. In music, the folk rock and psychedelic rock popular among hippies evolved into genres such as acid rock, world beat and heavy metal music. Psychedelic trance (also known as psytrance) is a type of electronic music music influenced by 1960s psychedelic rock. The tradition of hippie music festivals began in the United States in 1965 with Ken Kesey’s Acid Tests, where the Grateful Dead played stoned on LSD and initiated psychedelic jamming. For the next several decades, many hippies and neo-hippies became part of the Deadhead community, attending music and art festivals held around the country. The Grateful Dead toured continuously, with few interruptions between 1965 and 1995. Phish and their fans (called Phish Heads) operated in the same manner, with the band touring continuously between 1983 and 2004. Many contemporary bands performing at hippie festivals and their derivatives are called jam bands, since they play songs that contain long instrumentals similar to the original hippie bands of the 1960s.

With the demise of Grateful Dead and Phish, nomadic touring hippies attend a growing series of summer festivals, the largest of which is called the Bonnaroo Music & Arts Festival, which premiered in 2002. The Oregon Country Fair is a three-day festival featuring hand-made crafts, educational displays and costumed entertainment. The annual Starwood Festival, founded in 1981, is a six-day event indicative of the spiritual quest of hippies through an exploration of non-mainstream religions and world-views, and has offered performances and classes by a variety of hippy and counter-culture icons.

The Burning Man festival began in 1986 at a San Francisco beach party and is now held in the Black Rock Desert northeast of Reno, Nevada. Although few participants would accept the hippie label, Burning Man is a contemporary expression of alternative community in the same spirit as early hippie events. The gathering becomes a temporary city (36,500 occupants in 2005), with elaborate encampments, displays, and many art cars. Other events that enjoy a large attendance include the Rainbow Family Gatherings, Community Peace Festivals and the Woodstock Festivals.

In the UK, there are many new age travellers who are known as hippies to outsiders, but prefer to call themselves the Peace Convoy. They started the Stonehenge Free Festival in 1974, but English Heritage later banned the festival, resulting in the Battle of the Beanfield in 1985. With Stonehenge banned as a festival site, new age travellers gather at the annual Glastonbury Festival.

In New Zealand between 1976 and 1981 tens of thousands of hippies gathered from around the world on large farms around Waihi and Waikino for music and alternatives festivals. Named Nambassa, the festivals focused on peace, love, and a balanced lifestyle. The events featured practical workshops and displays advocating alternative lifestyles, self sufficiency, clean and sustainable energy and sustainable living.

In the UK and Europe, the years 1987 to 1989 were marked by a large-scale revival of many characteristics of the hippie movement. This later movement, composed mostly of people aged 18 to 25, adopted much of the original hippie philosophy of love, peace and freedom. The summer of 1988 became known as the Second Summer of Love. Although the music favored by this movement was modern electronic music, especially house music and acid house, one could often hear songs from the original hippie era in the chill out rooms at raves. In the UK, many of the well-known figures of this movement first lived communally in Stroud Green, an area of north London located in Finsbury Park.

Popular films depicting the hippie ethos and lifestyle include Woodstock, Easy Rider, Hair, The Doors, Across the Universe and Crumb.

In 2002, photojournalist John Bassett McCleary published a 650-page, 6,000-entry unabridged slang dictionary devoted to the language of the hippies titled The Hippie Dictionary: A Cultural Encyclopedia of the 1960s and 1970s. The book was revised and expanded to 700 pages in 2004. McCleary believes that the hippie counterculture added a significant number of words to the English language by borrowing from the lexicon of the Beat Generation, shortening words and popularizing their usage.

La culture

Dans les arts, la musique et le pop-art marquèrent les esprits. Le slogan Flower Power (« pouvoir des fleurs ») était le symbole de la non-violence. La génération hippie a révolutionné la musique, l’art et a ouvert la voie à l’écologie, à l’action humanitaire, au pacifisme, à la libération sexuelle, au féminisme, entre autres, lesquels sont autant de symboles d’une révolution de la culture et des mœurs, aujourd’hui complètement intégrés dans les sociétés occidentales, sans que celles-ci aient forcément conscience de leurs origines hippies. Au début des années 1990, la rencontre entre les derniers hippies de Goa et les disc-jokey internationaux, fans de musiques électroniques et issus, en partie, de la vague Acid house, a donné naissance à la Trance-Goa ou trance psychédélique (psytrance), régulièrement jouée depuis en rave party.

Eric Tabarly remporte avec Pen Duick V, la course transpacifique. Parti des Etats-Unis voici 39 jours, il établit un nouveau record. 

Jack Lang animateur du Festival de théatre, refuse de travailler pour l’exposition universelle d’Osaka. Motif : les Japonais exigent un droit de regard sur sa programmation.

Thank you Grain de Musc for your great post “My top ten spring fragrances” and your review on our NOIR PATCHOULI ! If you want to see her article :

http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/

Merci Grain de Musc pour votre bel article “Mon top ten des fragrances de printemps” et plus particulièrement votre revue sur notre NOIR PATCHOULI. Si vous voulez lire l’article, voilà le lien : http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/

Gérald Ghislain - One on One

Why did you choose the name, “Histoires de Parfums”, what are these stories about?

I like to create stories that make people dream. Since I’m not a writer I use fragrances instead of words. The essences are my ink!

What are these stories about?

First and foremost I am trying to convey and represent the fascinating French perfume industry know-how and passion. The perfumes’ ingredients were chosen with one sole criteria in mind; their quality.  They represent exceptional materials chosen exclusively for their quality. I want my perfume to stay on the skin while diffusing its personality. Some people make lightly-scented perfumes - but not me; I want my clients to have a full perfume-wearing experience. We wear perfume not only for ourselves, but for those around us as well - so what’s the point of creating a perfume no one can smell.

You’ve said your collection of perfumes is like a “library”, in which each perfume tells a story.

A long time ago, I had a sort of “revelation” while visiting the Perfume Museum of Grasse in France. I wanted to create my own type of perfume “story”, while respecting the proven historic fundamentals of perfume creation (Chypre, woodiness, floral) - through inspirational characters - each fragrance identified by its character’s birth date. Each perfume therefore is the embodiment of an illusionary volume of an illusionary encyclopedia; a poetic “atlas” in which one can freely travel.

What characters did you choose for the perfumes, and why?

For the men’s colognes, I chose Jules Verne, Casanova and Sade because they are a representation of 3 fundamental elements that are important to me: travelling, romantic and erotic. They were each chosen because of their unusual personalities.

For the women’s perfumes, I followed my instincts and the image I had had of notable, powerful women that had fascinating personalities. Mata Hari was an obvious choice because of her mysteriousness and oriental beauty. Eugenie de Montijo had seduction and fantasy. Colette inspired me to create a perfume lively and voluptuous like her. For George Sand, who liked nature and freedom, I made a flowery, yet spicy fragrance and lastly Colette inspired me to create a perfume lively and voluptuous like her.

Why did you choose colours to represent flowers?

I imagined each one as a colour that doesn’t exist. The Peony plant is green in colour, refreshing; it’s like a flower that hasn’t bloom yet and that has yet to release its fragrance. The white of face powder was essential for the violet and I’ve always associated patchouli with the colour black because of its smoky mysterious qualities.

I also wanted to create perfumes that are radically sensual that communicate a certain erotism. The year 1969 was an obvious choice for a body fragrance and the mystical amber was a perfect image to illustrate a oriental harem…

What is your first memory of perfume?

Like many people it was my mother’s perfume, Opium. Then it was the cologne given to me by my first love - Mûres et Musc de Laporte - when I was 13. Later I was going to the boutiques - the only places where one could find rare perfumes of that time, like Jicky or Mouchoir de Monsieur de Guerlain …

From a very young age you had very refined tastes!

I’ve always liked “beautiful things”. I got my passion for the opera from my mother, and the women I’ve loved thoughout my life introduced me to fashion and the true art of living (the “l’art de vivre”). Beauty enriches every-day life. Even when I spend the day alone, I dress nicely, I choose a nice plate for dinner etc. These details make a huge difference. I didn’t have an ideal childhood - at a young age I had to be responsible for my entire family. My only distraction was dreaming and my imagination. I always saw myself becoming a millionaire so that anything would be possible. But most of all I always wanted to make a difference in people’s lives.

How did perfume come into your life?

In the same way - and for the same reasons, but it took a while… I had to make a living very young. I think having to work so young was a blessing; I’ve already experienced so much! At home, I was in charge of cooking - preparing the menu, setting the table, I loved doing that! And I haven’t changed ; when I am cooking for guests, nobody sees much of me, I’m focusing on every detail, I want everything to be perfect! So I became a chef at 22 and I opened my first restaurant. Then the perfume business started in 1999 - (it had been an old dream…). I trained at ISIPCA - and the 12 scents of Histoires de Parfum were created shortly thereafter.

Flavors and Scents

Perfume maker, but also entrepreneur - this works well for you?

Absolutely! I like taking risks - reinventing myself. What I like most is conceptualizing a “want” or “wish”, turning it into a well-formed idea and then making it happen.  I like the creation end of things, but I want each project to come to term, to function, to seduce and surprise others.

How does one go from the century old perfume creation process to the art of modern perfume bottling? 

The switch was natural enough… In both cases we’re taking control of nature. With cooking, for example, we are using our sense of taste as well as our sense of smell. Starting with a particular theme, an idea or other element, we can create a mood or story - and of course need different ingredients to get there. A little bit of this, a pinch of that, a little bit of something else - always keeping in mind the final product. Perfume making is executed in exactly the same manner as cooking.  Beyond the creation of a perfume or a dish, what truly counts, is the ultimate concept of sensuality and sharing. Moreover, before a date, we prepare, we put on cologne or perfume, then of course - we go out - together…

Does gastronomy influence your fragrances?

Absolutely, and my fragrances influence my cooking as well! I instinctively pay a great deal of attention to the ingredients. A friend of mine said to me recently that there are many different olfactory touches in each one of my perfumes, like cinnamon and rose, vanilla and lavender, as I’ve used them before while making a flavorful dinner for friends. Cocktails made with a base of vetiver, soup “eau de parfum” made with hints of Sandal wood or macaroons with bergamot. The focus has always been to be a bit surprising - something unexpected….

Today you are focusing almost exclusively on HDP? Why are you so focused on it?

For many reasons - sooner or later food, cooking and restaurants depend on the human factor. I am an absolute perfectionist and I like to follow everything I start from A to Z. The most famous chefs don’t cook any more, (or almost) - it’s impossible. With the perfumes, on the other hand, I’ve finally reached that wonderful point of mastering the tools involved and have totally invested myself 100% into their creation. I have an endless supply of ideas - so the perfume is perfect for me - a seemingly inexhaustible field of expression. We could even imagine a different perfume for every moment in life. Perfume combines a dream, imagination and material creation.

The other reason is because of the multitude of people I can reach with my perfumes. What really makes me happy, is that each person can adapt each of my creations - imagining something different in each one, smelling something new and different. That’s what makes my perfumes so versatile after all.

World Traveler

Where do you find your inspiration?

Walking! I constantly travel and spend a lot of time walking in the cities I visit. In NY, B, B, I see many different people, in different architectures, different climates and it always gives me ideas. I don’t have much time to read, but lately I was greatly inspired by “Beaudelaire - Les Fleurs du Mal” - it inspired me to do a trilogy of scents based around the Tuberose.

Do you create fragrances for yourself?

No, not at all. I love them all, obviously, but I create these perfumes for everyone else to wear. I believe that I have the ambition to leave a « mark » on people’s skin… I have a strong ego, so it would be dishonest to say otherwise, but I don’t find that pretentious.

Intimate Portrait

So, what are your faults?

I am a bit imposing, yet versatile. I put my nose in everything, I’m very curious and I also get bored very easily. It can be productive but a bit tiring! Nonetheless I am very faithful. I think I’m a bit insolent too..

What are your strongest qualities?

My friends would say I am enthusiastic and generous.

What is your definition of luxury?

 (Something) exceptional, unique, and perhaps unattainable, which means that one must make an effort to reach it. And it is not always financial in nature: luxury, once discovered, deserves to be sought after. A relationship can be luxurious in the same way.

What was the happiest moment of your life?

The birth of each of my 4 children, so there were 4 moments!!!

When was the last time you laughed hysterically?

This morning! - and I laugh all the time.

When was the last time you cried?

Same answer!

The quality(s) you like most in a man?

That he doesn’t steal my (the) show!

And in a woman?

All the qualities which men don’t have.

What fault in others do you have the most patience for?

Jealousy. But up to a certain point, it is proof of love…

Do you have any heroes?

Pilleas Fogg.

What is an ideal day for you?

Tomorrow.

Your favorite drink?

Pink champagne in the morning.

Your favorite smell?

That’s a very difficult question… I like very much the smell of fresh rain on hot stones… the flower market at Rungis can be quite extraordinary (depending on the season). But I believe the smell of a stable, and of a farm affect me the most - it brings back childood memories ( my father was a jockey and my grandparents owned a farm).

Your favorite food?

It depends on who I’m with.

Your favorite colour?

It doesn’t exist yet, but I’m working on it…

Your favorite noise?

The ring of old metro wagons.

Your favorite composer?

Albinoni for his sadness and especially for his Adagio, and Strauss for his joy and his operettas.

The book on your nightstand?

L’Ecume des Jours de Boris Vian

Your obsession?

I feel like I have a new idea every second. So when I have a good one - I become obsessed to make it happen.

What is the best compliment anyone could give you?

I don’t like compliments very much. But it is a great satisfaction when people love that I create.

 If God exists, what would you say to him when you get to heaven?

“Oh, good - I’m in the right place! But I wasn’t in a hurry to see you..”

If someone gave you a magic wand, what would you do with it?

I would love to be able to speak every language.

“As she was entering, Emma felt surrounded by warm air, a mix of flowers and nice linen, smoked meats and the smell of truffles.”

Gustave Flaubert, Madame Bovary, 1857

Gérald Ghislain, en tête à tête.

Pourquoi avoir choisi ce nom, « Histoires de Parfums » ?

Parce que c’est ce que j’aime, raconter des histoires, faire rêver.  Mais comme je ne suis pas écrivain, j’utilise non pas des mots mais des essences.

Que racontent ces histoires ?

Elles parlent d’un savoir faire traditionnel passionnant, celui de la parfumerie française dont j’essaie de perpétuer l’exigence. Elles parlent de matières premières d’exception, que je choisis sur un seul critère : la qualité. Je veux que mes parfums restent sur la peau, et diffusent leur personnalité. Certains font des parfums discrets, moi non. Je veux aller au bout du geste de se parfumer : on le fait pour soi mais aussi pour les autres, donc je ne vois pas l’intérêt de créer des parfums que personne ne sent !

Pourquoi votre marque se présente-t-elle comme une bibliothèque dans laquelle chaque parfum représente un livre ?

Parce que j’ai eu une sorte de révélation en visitant, il y a très longtemps, le musée de la parfumerie de Grasse. Je voulais construire ma propre histoire du parfum en revisitant les fondamentaux (le chypré, le boisé, le floral etc.), à travers des personnages qui m’inspirent, identifiés par leur date de naissance. Ainsi, chaque parfum incarne un tome d’une encyclopédie subjective, d’un atlas poétique, dans lequel nous voyageons librement.

Comment avez-vous choisi ces personnages ?

Pour leur personnalité hors du commun. Pour les parfums masculins, j’ai choisi Jules Verne, Casanova et Sade, qui forment une trilogie complémentaire dans lequel j’exprime trois choses fondamentales pour moi : le voyage, le romantisme et l’érotisme.

Pour les féminins, je me suis laissé guidé par mon instinct et par l’image que j’avais de femmes à la personnalité fascinante ; Mata Hari s’est imposée avec son voile de mystère et sa beauté orientale, Eugénie de Montijo avec sa personnalité fantasque et séductrice. George Sand qui aimait la nature et sa liberté m’a inspiré un jus fleuri et épicé et enfin Colette un parfum gourmand et voluptueux, comme elle. 

Et pourquoi des couleurs pour les fleurs ?

Je les ai imaginées d’une couleur qui n’est pas celle de la réalité. Notre pivoine est verte, rafraîchissante, donnant l’impression d’une fleur  qui n’a pas encore éclos et qui distille délicatement son parfum. Le blanc d’une poudre de riz s’est imposé pour la violette, quant au patchouli, pour moi il a toujours été associé au noir avec sont coté fumé et mystérieux.

J’ai aussi eu envie de  parfums radicalement sensuels, illustrant un certain érotisme. L’année 1969 était une évidence pour une fragrance très près du corps, et l’ambre mythique s’accordait naturellement avec l’idée que l’on peut se faire d’un harem oriental…

Quel est votre premier souvenir de parfum ?

Comme beaucoup de personnes, le parfum de ma mère. Opium. Puis, celui que mon premier amour m’a offert, Mûre et Musc de Laporte (L’Artisan Parfumeur), j’avais 13 ans. Ensuite, j’allais dans des boutiques, seuls endroits où l’on trouvait des parfums rares à l’époque, comme Jicky ou Mouchoir de Monsieur de Guerlain…

Déjà très jeune, vous aviez des goûts très sûrs !

J’ai toujours aimé ce qu’on appelle ‘les belles choses’. Ma mère m’a transmis sa passion pour l’opéra et l’opérette, puis les femmes que j’ai aimées m’ont ouvert à la mode et à l’art de vivre. Le beau embellit le quotidien. Même lorsque je passe la journée seul, je m’habille avec attention, je choisis une jolie assiette pour mon diner, etc. Ce sont ces détails qui changent tout. Je n’ai pas eu une enfance idyllique, j’ai eu très tôt à assumer la responsabilité de la famille. Mon seul divertissement c’était rêver. Je me voyais devenir milliardaire pour que tout me soit accessible. Mais avant tout je voulais faire quelque chose qui touche les gens.

Et le parfum est arrivé comme ça dans votre vie ?

Pour les mêmes raisons, mais pas tout de suite. Il a fallu que je gagne ma vie, très tôt. Mais je crois que cela a été une chance de travailler très jeune, j’ai déjà vécu tant de choses ! A la maison, c’est moi qui cuisinais. Concevoir un menu, dresser une belle table, j’adorais ça. Et je n’ai pas changé : lorsque je cuisine pour mes amis, ils ne me voient pas de la soirée, je suis absorbé par le moindre détail, il faut que tout soit parfait ! Donc je suis devenu cuisinier, et à 22 ans j’ouvrais mon premier restaurant. Le parfum est arrivé en 1999, c’était un vieux rêve. J’ai suivi une formation à l’ISIPCA et les 12 fragrances d’Histoires de Parfums sont nées très vite.

Des saveurs aux senteurs.

Esthète, mais aussi entrepreneur, si l’on vous suit ?

Exactement. J’aime prendre des risques, me renouveler. Ce qui me plaît le plus, c’est parvenir à conceptualiser une envie, en faire une idée et mener cette idée à bien. J’aime créer, mais je veux que chaque projet aboutisse à quelque chose qui fonctionne et qui plaise, qui étonne les autres.

Comment passe-t-on du « piano » aux flacons ?

Le chemin est assez naturel. Dans les deux cas, on sublime la nature. Avec la gastronomie d’une part, on fait autant participer le goût que l’odorat. A partir d’un thème, d’une envie ou d’un élément, on compose une ambiance, une histoire, et on la met en œuvre avec différents ingrédients. Un peu de ceci, une pincée de cela, une goutte d’autre chose, sans oublier la présentation. La parfumerie procède exactement de la même manière que les arts de la table. Mais au-delà de la construction d’un parfum ou d’un plat, ce qui compte, c’est la notion de sensualité et de partage. D’ailleurs, avant un rendez-vous amoureux, on s’apprête, on se parfume, puis en général, on va dîner en tête à tête !

La gastronomie influence-t-elle vos parfums ?

Sans aucun doute, et réciproquement. Mais ce jeu d’influences est plus instinctif que réfléchi. Une amie m’a fait remarquer récemment qu’il y avait une note gustative dans chacun de mes parfums, comme la cannelle avec la rose, la vanille et la lavande,  alors que j’organisais un repas chez moi avec des mets parfumés. Cocktails à base d’essence de vétiver, consommé « eau de parfum » au santal ou macarons à la bergamote. Le but est toujours d’étonner.

Pour autant, vous vous consacrez aujourd’hui quasiment exclusivement à votre marque, Histoires de Parfums. Pourquoi cette prédilection ?

Pour plusieurs raisons. La gastronomie est, tôt ou tard, soumise au facteur humain. Or je suis d’un perfectionnisme absolu, et j’aime suivre ce que j’entreprends de A à Z. Les grands chefs ne cuisinent plus, ou presque, c’est impossible. Avec le parfum en revanche, je touche enfin cette formidable sensation de maîtriser son outil, de m’investir personnellement à 100% dans ma création. Et puis, le boulimique d’idées que je suis est comblé avec le parfum, car c’est un champ inépuisable d’expression. On pourrait  imaginer un parfum pour chaque instant de la vie. Le parfum réunit le rêve, l’imaginaire et la création matérielle.

L’autre raison tient à la multiplicité des gens que je peux atteindre via mes parfums. Ce qui me plait, c’est que chacun peut s’approprier ces créations, imaginer quelque chose d’autre, sentir quelque chose de différent. Ce qui fait des milliers de versions de chaque parfum, au final !

Globe trotteur

Où trouvez-vous votre inspiration ?

En marchant ! je voyage sans cesse, et je passe beaucoup de temps à marcher dans les villes. Là, à New York, Barcelone, Berlin, je croise des gens différents, au milieu d’architectures différentes, dans des climats différents, et cela me donne toujours des idées. Je n’ai pas beaucoup de temps pour lire, mais dernièrement « Les fleurs du mal » de Baudelaire m’ont inspiré une trilogie autour de la tubéreuse

Créez-vous ces parfums pour vous ?

Non, pas du tout. Ils me plaisent tous évidemment, mais je les conçois vraiment pour les autres, pour que les autres les portent. Je crois que j’ai l’ambition de laisser une empreinte sur la peau des gens, sans pour autant me mettre en avant. J’ai un égo fort, je trouve malhonnête de dire le contraire, mais je ne pense pas être prétentieux.

Portrait intime

Quel est votre défaut alors ?

Je suis à la fois un peu envahissant et versatile. Je me mêle de tout, je suis très curieux mais je me lasse aussi très vite. Cela peut est très moteur mais un peu fatigant ! Néanmoins, je suis très fidèle. Je crois que je suis un peu insolent aussi…

Et vos principales qualités ?

A en croire mes proches, enthousiaste et généreux.

Quelle est votre définition du luxe ?

Exceptionnel, inédit, et peut-être inatteignable, du moins qui implique que l’on fasse un effort pour l’obtenir. Et pas simplement financier : le luxe se déniche, mérite qu’on se déplace, qu’on le cherche. Une relation peut être luxueuse en ce sens.

Quel est le moment de votre vie où vous avez été le plus heureux ?

J’ai 4 enfants, donc il y a eu 4 moments !!!

Votre dernier fou rire ?

Ce matin ; je rigole tout le temps !

Vos dernières larmes ?

Idem.

La qualité que vous préférez chez un homme ?

Qu’il ne me fasse pas d’ombre !

Chez une femme ?

Toutes celles que les hommes n’ont pas.

Le défaut pour lequel vous avez le plus d’indulgence ?

Tout ceux des autres mais surtout pas les miens.

Votre héros ?

Philleas Fogg

Votre journée idéale ?

Demain.

Votre boisson préférée ?

Du champagne rosé le matin.

Votre odeur favorite ?

Question très difficile, je suis amoureux des odeurs… L’odeur de la pluie sur des pierres chaudes me plait, le marché aux fleurs de Rungis peut être aussi très surprenant selon la saison. Mais je crois que les odeurs émanant d’une ferme ou d’un haras me touchent plus, car elles m’évoquent de nombreux souvenirs d’enfance (mon père était Jockey et mes grands parents avaient une ferme).

Votre péché mignon ?

Tout dépend de qui m’accompagne.

Votre couleur préférée ?

Elle n’existe pas encore mais j’y travaille…

Votre bruit fétiche ?

La sonnerie des vieilles rames de métro.

Votre compositeur préféré ?

Albinoni pour sa tristesse en général et son Adagio en particulier, et Strauss pour sa gaité et ses opérettes.

Votre livre de chevet ?

L’écume des jours de Boris Vian.

Votre obsession ?

Comme j’ai une nouvelle idée à chaque seconde, je suis obsédé par le moyen de la réaliser.

Quel est le plus beau compliment que l’on puisse vous faire ?

Je n’aime pas trop recevoir de compliments. Mais j’éprouve un énorme sentiment de satisfaction lorsque l’on me félicite sur une de mes réalisations.

Si Dieu existe, que lui diriez-vous en arrivant au paradis ?

Ah ! je suis bien content, je ne m’étais donc pas trompé. Mais je n’étais pas pressé de vous voir…

Si l’on vous offrait une baguette magique, qu’en feriez-vous ?

Je parlerais toutes les langues.

“Emma se sentit, en entrant, enveloppée par un air chaud, mélange du parfum des fleurs et du beau linge, du fumet des viandes et de l’odeur des truffes.”

Gustave Flaubert, Madame Bovary, 1857

Robin Knox-Johnston becomes the first person to sail around the world solo without stopping.

Hippies were often pacifists and participated in non-violent political demonstrations, such as civil rights marches, the marches on Washington D.C., and anti-Vietnam War demonstrations, including draft card burnings and the 1968 Democratic National Convention protests. The degree of political involvement varied widely among hippies, from those who were active in peace demonstrations to the more anti-authority street theater and demonstrations of the Yippies, the most politically active hippie sub-group. Bobby Seale discussed the differences between Yippies and hippies with Jerry Rubin who told him that Yippies were the political wing of the hippie movement, as hippies have not “necessarily become political yet”. Regarding the political activity of hippies, Rubin said, “They mostly prefer to be stoned, but most of them want peace, and they want an end to this stuff.”

In addition to non-violent political demonstrations, hippie opposition to the Vietnam War included organizing political action groups to oppose the war, refusal to serve in the military and conducting “teach-ins” on college campuses that covered Vietnamese history and the larger political context of the war.

Scott McKenzie’s 1967 rendition of John Phillips’ song “San Francisco (Be Sure to Wear Flowers in Your Hair)”, which helped inspire the hippie Summer of Love, became a homecoming song for all Vietnam veterans arriving in San Francisco from 1967 on. McKenzie has dedicated every American performance of “San Francisco” to Vietnam veterans, and he sang at the 2002 20th anniversary of the dedication of the Vietnam Veteran Memorial. “San Francisco” became a freedom song worldwide, especially in Eastern European nations that suffered under Soviet-imposed communism.

Hippie political expression often took the form of “dropping out” of society to implement the changes they sought. Politically motivated movements aided by hippies include the back to the land movement of the 1960s, cooperative business enterprises, alternative energy, the free press movement, and organic farming.

The political ideals of the hippies influenced other movements, such as anarcho-punk, rave culture, green politics, stoner culture and the new age movement. Penny Rimbaud of the English anarcho-punk band Crass said in interviews, and in an essay called The Last Of The Hippies, that Crass was formed in memory of his friend, Wally Hope. Penny Rimbaud also said that Crass were heavily involved with the hippie movement throughout the 1960s and Seventies, with Dial House being established in 1967. Many punks were often critical of Crass for their involvement in the hippie movement. Like Crass, Jello Biafra was influenced by the hippie movement and cited the yippies as a key influence on his political activism and thinking, though he did write songs critical of hippies.

Pacifisme

Peace and Love, “paix et amour”, est l’expression du pacifisme hippie des années 1960. Un autre slogan, inspiré de la guerre du Viêt Nam, Make love not war, “faites l’amour pas la guerre”, a été repris par le courant hippie pour les mêmes raisons;l’expression apparaît en 1974 dans la chanson Mind Games de John Lennon.

Flower Power “le pouvoir des fleurs”, est une autre expression pacifique qui trouve son origine dans le summer of love de 1967 à San Fransisco. Consigne était alors donnée de “porter des fleurs dans ses cheveux”, comme l’illustre chanson de John McKenzie San Fransisco(Be sure to wear flowers in your hair). Les hippies furent dès lors communéments appelés flower children, “enfant des fleurs”. L’ensemble de ces expressions cherchaient à traduire une opposition à la guerre et à la violence en général, sans pour autant que les revendications soient toujours plus élaborées ou véritablement théorisées.